Last day in SPB, first leg of Trans Siberian trip and 2 days in Moscow

With a title like that, I figure I have my work cut out for me, don't you think. I will have to get myself a cup of tea in a bit so I don't flag halfway through!

Our second day (on 8/20) at The Hermitage was as spellbinding as our first - wonderful being able to return with fresh feet and new eyes for 4 or so more hours at a museum we doubt we'll ever see again. Being able to gaze if only briefly at the wonders of room upon room of paintings by Rubens, Rembrandt, Cezanne and all the other Masters is a treat not quickly forgotten. I envy Ivy's knowledge of the world's most famous painters and their great works and wished she were by our side to help us more fully appreciate what we were seeing.
It wasn't just the paintings, sculptures or other pieces of art I/we loved; for me, seeing the gorgeous, beautiful, intricate ceilings and floors in many of the rooms were worth the price of admission in and of themselves. One had to be constantly reminded to look down as well as up and not just in front to fully absorb all there was to see.
As many of you know, I spent literally countless hours on the computer over this past year reading other travelers' posts on Trip Advisor for EACH of the countries we were planning to visit on this trip.
One thing that was very confusing was the matter of getting our Russian visas "registered" once in Russia as there seemed to be of confusion as to whether it was actually required or not.
We decided not to take any chances and anted up $25 each to have this done in SPB (compared to $50 each in Moscow) several months ago to the same company we had paid for our "Letter of Invitation," a document needed before applying for the Russian visa.
All this to say, we had our passports photocopied at the company's SPB office on 8/17 and told to pick up the visa registrations late Monday, the 19th, or the next day. We were there close to closing hours but nope, they were not available. We were a tad apprehensive knowing we needed them before leaving SPB the next day for Moscow but luckily we were able to pick them up by 4ish on the 20th so that mini crisis was averted.
Funny story for you: We were waiting about 6pm on the sidewalk in front of our airbnb apt for an independent taxi to take us to take us to the train station. Steven decided to sit on the pavement rather than wait standing up, which is not uncommon for him to do; soon 2 Russian young men stopped by with beers in their hands evidently somewhat surprised to see Steven on his rear and wanting to chat. You have to bear in mind I know NO Russian apart from please, thank you, and the like but Steven knows a good part of the Cyrillic alphabet and a few rudimentary phrases, praise be! Anyways, the two guys (all of 20 mind you) proudly showed us their Russian police ID badges and the English slogans on their Tshirts. I remarked that some of the words were misspelled and were not English at all and one of them said laughingly they were made in China inferring what do you expect! In the middle of all this, an old woman, clearly down on her luck, stopped and got money out of her pocket to give to Steven thinking he was begging sitting on the street like that!
Last thought about SPB for now - very minimal obvious to us at least police presence in the city which we were surprised about.
Onto Moscow via the overnight train and specifically the very famous Red Arrow train I'd read about online. Not sure what the future trains will be like as we travel across the vast breadth of Russia but this first one was a great introduction - very clean and spacious compartment - perhaps you'll want to remind me I said that in a few weeks when we're still travelling by train!
After quick showers at the iVan Hostel (nope, no misspelling!), we walked (natch!) to meet up with our Moscow "Free" Walking Tour to get a sense of the city.
Irina, our guide, was very good just like the others - lucky us.
A few facts and figures for you: the city has a population of 14-15 million and 10% of Russians live in Moscow; the heart of the city art is known as Lord of the Rings b/c there are so many ring roads around the city; a Russian person needs a special occasion to smile, Irina said although she was smiling pretty well nonstop through our 2 plus hour tour!
Communism substituted for Christianity; when Yuri Gagarin returned from space, Kruschev asked him, "So, did you see any God in space?" Gagarin replied that he had felt him to which Kruschev replied "Don't tell anyone!"
Red Square was called that not b/c of the red brick used in its construction but b/c another meaning for red in the Russian language was beautiful.
A couple of Russian jokes courtesy of Irina knowing we, among others on the tour were from the US: You can say in the US, "I hate Reagan, I hate Reagan. Well, we can say the say the same thing here in Russia in the middle of Red Square: I hate Reagan, I hate Reagan!" Another one: You Americans had an election last year and Obama and Romney were the candidates. How did you not know in advance who'd win the election? After all, here in Russia, we know months or even years in advance who'll win the election!
Perhaps the jokes don't come across well in my telling it but they were amusing to us. Ben, I need your comic touch!
On a more serious note, Irina related how her grandfather returning home to Russia after being a prisoner of war, was then imprisoned in Russia for a year as his loyalty to the USSR was questioned.
Stalin was asked to pick and then initial one of 2 architectural plans for a new building; he initialed in the middle of both plans so the architect, not wanting to displease Stalin, chose one design for one part of the new building's facade and the other design for the other part!
Stalin was asked to approve the draft of the famous Moscow Metro; he left a coffee stain on the draft so now Moscow has a Brown Metro line.
This is getting way too long so I'll just say that after the tour y'day, we toured the massive Kremlin complex, St. Basil's, Gum, the world's largest department store, but I have a fear of heights so not something I want to revisit; today, another long walking day (about 12 miles according to my pedometer, Mindy!) - walked to the Arbat, akin to Boulder's Pearl St, then on to Gorky Park (all you spy novel fans, weep!) and then to the Tretyakov Gallery.
Steven, who also wants to be known as the pack mule, had DEFINITELY had it by the end of the day! I hope he'll recover by tomorrow but not planning too much luckily.
Photo time! XOXO to all those we love and hold dear.

Alexander's Column I mentioned in a previous post in front of The Hermitage

The main building of The Hermitage

Rembrandt's Return of the Prodigal Son

and his Descent from the Cross

One of the many "Netherlandish" Rooms

Matisee's Dance

Waiting for the midnight train to Moscow

Love the impersonators!

Building with 2 facades courtesy of Stalin

St. Basil's in the b'ground

Changing of the Guard outside the Kremlin

In the Kremlin

The Kremlin

Entrance to Gorky Park

Tretyakov Gallery

Tretyakov Gallery

Tretyakov Gallery

Tretyakov Gallery - see Steven in right hand corner!

Love the Izod skorts, Suellen!

The Kremlin walls